Hot Water, Tea, and Bamboo

The warm evenings of summer are in the past, and as the sun sets earlier and earlier, nights get cooler and cooler, I find myself searching for more and more ways of warming in nights and mornings.

I put the water on to boil and choose a clay bowl. I scoop out some green matcha tea with a bamboo chashaku, and spread just a little bit at the bottom of the bowl. Add the hot water, and it’s time for the chasen, a small, bamboo tea whisk that I quickly swish in tiny circles inside the bowl. The matcha tea mixes in the hot water, forming a thin layer of froth on the surface. I set the tea whisk aside and enjoy my bowl of green warmth.

There are many tools involved in Japanese tea ceremony, and those were just a few. However, among them, the chasen tea whisk is often considered to be a symbol of tea ceremony. The tea whisk is instantly recognizable, with its bamboo handle and fine teeth, fanning out in precise, straight lines, and then beautifully bending back to the inside. It is masterful work that looks simple. It is the art of design at its best. All from just one piece of bamboo.

Going back hundreds of years, Nara has produced many of Japan’s (and the world’s) chasen tea whisks. We have a program that actually allows you to make your own tea whisk with a master craftsman. As nights get colder and winter feels longer, wouldn’t you like to have your own tea whisk to make yourself a warm bowl of matcha tea?

Making a Bamboo Tea Whisk Experience

Yummy Yoshino: Hungry at Yamato Kami-ichi Station

Around this time of year, many people visit Odaigahara and other parts of Yoshino to see the beautiful reds and yellows of leaves. I see many people get off at Kintetsu Yamato Kami-ichi Station and wait for their bus deeper into the mountains. Just in case you are hungry, I want to share a little wisdom I received from the locals, as I think you too will enjoy eating where “everyone around here” eats.

Hikari Shokudo is a traditional Japanese diner located in front of the station. I took off my shoes, and stepped up and sat on a floor pillow next to the window.

Across the Yoshino River, the layers of mountains zigzagged over one another to Yoshinoyama and beyond. The busy sounds of the lumber across the river were a pleasant reminder of the Yoshino cedar this area is famous for. Locals recommend the maki-zushi sushi roll at Hikari Shokudo, but I felt like warming up with the Kayaku Udon today.

 

Filled with meat, fried crisp, and other fixing, eating here felt less like a restaurant and more like a home. The flowers, Eto animal decorations, and local photographs give it a warmth not found in chain diners. I know people who eat here many times a month, so I feel this place is essential for the local experience.

If you are short on time, or want something you can take with you, I recommend walking down the hill and around the corner to Kuninaka Meats.

This place is a popular stop for locals, thanks to the freshly fried beef-potato croquettes! At 60 yen a piece, you can easily buy a bag of them for you and your friends.

Take them with you on a hike to the mountains, or back to the city as a warm memory of Yoshino. I am lucky enough to have been on the receiving end of these beef-potato croquettes a few times, and they always make my day.

Visiting the Water Shed Forest of the Yoshino River

The mountains of Kawakami Village have 500 years of forestry history. However, even before that, during the Nanboku-cho period (1336-1392), the emperor of the Southern Court made their headquarters deep in these mountains, in an area called Sannoko. The Southern Court was eventually overtaken by the Northern Court, but the forest in which it was headquartered has been left nearly untouched, even to today.

One of the easier parts of the path.
Crossing a log bridge.

Yesterday, a visiting professor from England and I trekked through this forest, over log bridges, along cliffs, and eventually to Myojin Waterfall. “Hooray! Hooray!” he shouted when we reached the waterfall. The water slowly gathers in these mountains, giving life to moss and plants, and forming small streams, tributaries, waterfalls, and eventually the Yoshino River. This river flows through Kawakami Village, Yoshino Town, Oyodo Town, Gojo City, Wakayama Prefecture, and eventually to the ocean. It provides water and a habitat for many kinds of life all along the way.

A view of Myojin Waterfall.
Myojin Waterfall

I always love coming to this forest. Its combination of ancient history and overwhelming nature is very surreal. It is well out of range for any cell phone reception, so I can forget about my news feed, emails, and updates here. I just watch my steps, hold on to the ropes, and try to take it all in.

The forest is covered in many kinds of beautiful moss.

This forest is protected and requires permission to enter. However, it is still very accessible for visitors staying in southern Nara Prefecture. If you are interested in visiting the forest, please contact the MoritoMizuno Genryukan (Forest and Water Museum) or the Kawakami Village Office, and they can provide you with more information. I recommend having some climbing experience and getting comfortable with high places, as there are some steep cliffs. There are sometimes snakes, deer, and bears, so please do not go by yourself.

The protective covering of Yakushi-ji Temple’s national treasure East Pagoda is currently being dismantled!

The national treasure East Pagoda of Nara’s Yakushi-ji Temple, whose vast restoration will be celebrated next year on April 22, 2020. Currently, the covering that protected it throughout its vast restoration is being dismantled and taken apart.
With two large cranes on the temple grounds, and steel beams being removed and carried down, we began to see the Mizukemuri finial atop the pagoda. I could see the highest roof when I visited two days later, and on my fourth day of observation, I was transfixed once again recognizing the top three roofs and that beautiful site…

Soon, we will be able to see the entire East Pagoda. There are six roofs, but the first, third, and fifth roofs from the bottom are small, decorative roofs designed to keep out rain and wind called mokoshi. Actually, on the inside there are just three layers stacked up in this pagoda.
The woven balance of the large and small roofs is very rhythmical, and the American philosopher and art historian, Ernest Fenollosa, famously described it as “frozen music”.

In a manner of speaking, the current East Pagoda is rare. Surrounded by a large covering, it is protected in a way that it almost feels small.
The Mizukemuri finial at the top is over 180 cm. I forgot just “how big” it felt when I was allowed to visit the site while it was open during restoration.

The Mizukemuri finial is made of copper. It is a part of the Sourin that decorates the top of the pagoda, with four panels in the east, west, south, and north, dancing in the sky and designed with Hiten fretwork. The panels weigh about 100 kilograms each as they sit at the very top of the pagoda. Amazing!
Due to wear, tear, and concerns for safety, as the original Mizukemuri finial probably won’t last for another 1,300 years, it is being replaced by a newly constructed Heisei Mizukemuri finial. It will watch over future generations, becoming a part of Yakushi-ji Temple history, and we all just might be witnesses.

http://www.nara-yakushiji.com/

*Sep. 4, morning, from in front of the eastern priest quarters

A Marriage of Japanese Saké and Japanese Sweets, Enjoyed in the Ancient Capital of Nara

Have you heard of Nakanishi Yosaburo Nara Sweets, an old Japanese sweetshop that has continued for over 100 years in Nara?
It is a sweetshop that supplies shrines and temples in Nara Prefecture, as well as the Imperial household.

Located in the traditional Naramachi, which has been popular among tourists in recent years, the lattice door entrance and slitted portholes on the second floor of Nakanishi Yosaburo have a true Naramachi-like elegance to them. They do not just sell Japanese sweets at this shop, as we can also enjoy sweets or a meal at the Rokuboan Cafe in the back of the store.

When its hot, we recommend the Naramachi Ice, which comes in four different flavors. This shaved ice brings to life the flavors of special ingredients, with syrups made from Tsukigase Plums or Asuka Strawberries. Or with kudzu jello on top of ice and sprinkled with Akadama Sweet Wine, the Yumekoribana (Dream Ice Flower) is perfect for the summer. The twinkling Yumekoribana is beyond words, and cools us down by just looking at it.

 

This time, we have added the experience of making Japanese Sweets at Nakanishi Yosaburo Nara Sweets to nara-experience.com. It will be held at the shop’s recently renovated hidden bar.
In a space that can only fit up to five people, it is like a high-class sushi shop!
With the wooden molds for raw and dried sweets on display, learn Japanese sweet making from a craftsman.
There are many Japanese sweets that express the seasons of this country, and asking a craftsman about the thoughts and effort they put into their sweets is a precious opportunity.

Along with the Japanese sweets you have made, this time you can also enjoy Japanese saké! You might wonder, “Do Japanese sweets and Japanese saké go well together?”, so please take this opportunity to experience it.

It is okay if you do not like saké! We also have plans that include matcha green tea or coffee.

〇 Japanese Sweets Making Experience in Nara Hidden Sweets Bar
http://nara-experience.com/detail/index/454
〇Japanese Saké and Japanese Sweets Hidden Sweets Bar
http://nara-experience.com/detail/index/453

※ We also sell guide services, but only for the Japanese language program.

The Chief Priest is a Doctor of Life Science!

I went to Shorenji Temple in Gojo City, Nara Pref. as part of the “Delicious Summer Rounds” Umashi Natsu Meguri plan.

The origins of Shorenji come from when the wife of Emperor Saga was pregnant, and the emperor prayed to and enshrined Jizo Bosatsu for the safe birth of the prince. After that, this land became known as yorase, or “coming feet”, after Kobo Taishi (Kukai) stopped by Shorenji when he was establishing Mt. Koya. At that time, he prayed for the path to Mt. Koya to be sunny, and even today Shorenji is loved as a temple to pray for clear weather, rain, and safe births.

Now, the main hall is decorated with many yet-to-be-burned teruteru bozu dolls made at an event by college students from Osaka, and these liven up the area around the real Jizo.
The characters for “Shorenji” mean “Life-Lotus-Temple”. In tribute to the name of the temple, its Chief Priest, who is growing 120 varieties and 300 pots of lotuses, is a Doctor of Life Science. In this Umashi Natsu Meguri, after a lecture on lotuses, we viewed the many lotuses on the temple grounds, and were given explanations for each of them.
Among those, the double-headed lotus really left an impression on me. Lotuses usually have one flower per stem, but very rarely a second flower also blooms, and these are called the “double-headed lotus”.

In Nihonshoki, the oldest chronicles of Japan, there is a recording from July, 635 A.D. that says “Congratulations, the lotus in Tsurugi Pond, one stem and two flowers”. As “an omen for something good”, the double-headed lotus has been considered a lucky flower since ancient times, and it has been said that people become happy by just seeing it.
The Chief Priest said, “It is like a four-leaved clover”. It does not pass on its genes, so this flower is limited to one generation and extremely rare. I am happy that I am just able to see it!

We returned to the visitors’ room, and while hearing stories of lotuses that need to be grown in large containers, ones that can grow in small containers, and how difficult it is to know if you can grow them from seeds, we tasted and compared the deep flavors of lotus flower tea, lotus leaf tea, lotus heart tea, and lotus tea. Next, we moved to the main hall and experienced ajikan meditation in front of the object of worship. After the participants have relaxed their mind and body, we ate a special bento lunch from the Michelin 1 star restaurant, Gojo Genbei, to end this blissful plan.

Umashi Natsu Meguri http://www.nara-umashi.com/summer/lineup/shorenji.html
Shorenji Temple http://www.ozizou.jp/

Plant Dyeing Experience in Asuka Village

On the grounds where “Japan began”, in Asuka Village you can experience plant dyeing using plants that appear in the Man’yoshu.
Surrounded by colorful flowers, this house is called the “Plant Dyeing Research Center”. The teacher makes dyes from various plants everyday and expresses beautiful patterns.

First, choose the material that you like from up to 80 different patterns woven in cotton.
Depending on the material, even the same color or pattern can look completely different. It takes a long time for participants to choose a material…we understand if many catch your eye!

Dyes change depending on the season, but they always have up to eight dyes for participants to use.
When we visited, they had Canadian Goldenrod, Onion Skin, Chestnut Burr, Loquat Bark, Red Rice, Jasmine, and Rubia.
Even if you just say “yellow”, from lemon color to yellow with gold tones, there are a variety of colors in which it can be dyed depending on the plant.
The place is decorated with many works of plant dye, and whether they are works with similar colors, or works that show a gradation of all of the colors, every work is very fascinating!

After the experience, we heard stories about the Man’yo plants that appear in the Man’yoshu and the plants that are used for plant dyeing.
Since the teacher is also a forest instructor who protects the nature of Asuka Village, please ask not only about plants, but also about the beautiful nature of Asuka Village.
From individuals to families and groups of friends, I hope you all have the chance to enjoy this experience!

Details of this program are below: ↓↓

Making a Stole: http://nara-experience.com/detail/index/447

Making a Handkerchief: http://nara-experience.com/detail/index/446

The Pop Idols of Nara Park

Now, we can meet “Bambi!”, or fawns (baby deer), at Nara Park.
While pregnant deer are protected from an early stage at Roku-en, which provides protection and treatment to deer that are injured or sick, deer are after all wild animals, so there are mother deer who give birth without this protection, and are now taking their children for an early debut at Nara Park.
Of course fawns born at Roku-en will in turn make their debuts at Nara Park, too.


The fawns I met at Nara Park today had a head and body length of 60~70 centimeters. The height of their shoulders was 40 centimeters.
They trotted along with their mothers.

The following was written on a flyer from the Nara Deer Protection Agency, so we adhere to it.

“If you see a fawn (baby deer) in the park, please keep an eye on it.
For two to three weeks after birth, fawns have the habit of spending time hiding in the grass.
Please don’t touch the fawns. If their mothers detect a human scent, they sometimes stop feeding them milk.


Please beware of the mother deer. The mother deer have strong motherly instincts, and sometimes attack those who are just close to their children.
Deer will mistakenly eat garbage, so please take all of your garbage home with you.
The deer inhabiting Nara Park are wild animals and mainly eat grass, nuts and berries of trees, and snack on “shika senbei (deer crackers)”.
Anything else will upset their stomachs, so please don’t feed them anything else.

Indeed, though it may be common sense, we still have the tendency to run and say, “It’s Bambi!” Let’s be careful when we go to the park. Nara Park will continue to be a place to co-exist with deer. The deer are waiting for us at Nara Park anytime. Please come say hello!

Seasonal Flower – Hydrangea

Hydrangea is known as “flower of rain season(June-July)”.

Each Hydrangea has different color and it depends on concentration of pH in the soil.
The contrast between color of Hydrangea and nostalgic buildings in temples is worth of seeing. Especially Yatadera-temple (Yamato Koriyama city) is famous as Hydrangea temple in Kansai region. Hydrangea garden is opening by July and you can see 60 kinds and 10,000 Hydrangeas.

~Yatadera Temple~

https://www.visitnara.jp/venues/A01198/

 

Let’s try Ayu fishing in crystal clear river in Higashiyoshino!

Only Summer and Early Autumn! Let’s try Ayu fishing in crystal clear river in Higashiyoshino where is surrounded by a rich natural environment.

Ayu is inhabiting all around Japan, however Ayu fishing is especially popular in Nara. Ayu fishing season is very short, from June to September only!

The method of catching Ayu is very unique and totally different from the others.
One of the most important thing to catch Ayu is by means of a live Ayu as a decoy. It is based on the habit of Ayu.
As Ayu is very territorial, it is likely to attack the live decoy as the intruder. The live decoy has a fish hook and Ayu get caught when it attacks.


A famous fishing instructor will provide you a detailed lesson and everyone can enjoy the program even if you are a beginner!
Please have a memorable time for your summer holiday with Ayu fishing!

Please check our website↓↓
http://nara-experience.com/detail/index/248